This was my room for the next 3 and 1/2 months. Pretty sparse. A single bed (with lots of blankets it was a bone-chilling cold at that time of year there), two kerosene lamps, my short-wave radio, a little guitar and chair.

Down the hall from my room was a washroom with shower, but no hot water -- in fact, only cold water, very VERY COLD water. I'd run just enough to help lather myself up; turn off the water; scrub like crazy; and rinse for about 30 seconds. Anything more would be unbearable. Even at that, I'd spend the next 2 hours in front of the fireplace, wrapped in a blanket, in the living area just off my room. Did I mention these are the good 'ol days??? :)

...But you know, this was also the view from my room -- horses grazing beside tangerine trees as the sunset over those rolling Uruguayian hills. Magic.