I spent 3 1/2 months at the Estancia Tres Arroyos, a cattle and sheep ranch, with only three other people: Antonio Gimenez, the foreman; Marta, his wife; and Erardo, the peone and Antonio's sidekick. From time to time other visitors dropped through.

The estanica was owned by the father of my friend, Katie. After expressing some interest in working there, Katie was able to arrange it -- something I will be forever grateful for.

This is where I stayed. Modest in terms of ammenities, but relatively a very nice homestead. It was divided into five main portions and built in a U-shape (from left to right): (1)a storage/garage area; (2)Erardo's quarters; (3)Antonio and Marta's Foreman's quarters; (4)the common kitchen area; (5)the Owner's quarters, where I stayed. This included a dining area, a couple of bedrooms, and washroom.

From left to right: Gustavo (Monica's husband), Antonio, Marta, and Monica (their daughter) share a mate in the kitchen. Mate is a Uruguayian tea drunk daily by the population, especially in the country. It is a sipped through a metal straw that has a strainer on its end to keep the yerba, or loose tea leaves, from coming through. Boiling water is poured into the mate cup. It is an acquired, but eventually addictive taste that provides a kick to your morning.